Thursday, June 3, 2010

Vintage 1960s' fashion

Clothing of 1960s'

Youth predominated the culture of the 1960’s. The post World War II Baby Boom had created 70 million teenagers for the sixties, and these youth swayed the fashion, the fads and the politics of the decade. California surfers took to skateboards as a way to stay fit out of season, and by 1963, the fad had spread across the country. Barbie dolls, introduced by Mattel in 1959, became a huge success in the sixties, so much so that rival toy manufacturer Hasbro came up with G.I. Joe, 12 inches tall and the first action figure for boys.

In fashion, the 1960’s began with crew cuts on men and bouffant hairstyles on women. Men’s casual shirts were often plaid and buttoned down the front, while knee-length dresses were required wear for women in most public places. By mid-decade though, miniskirts or hot pants, often worn with go-go boots, were revealing legs and women’s hair was either very short or long and lanky. Men’s hair became longer and wider along with beards and moustaches. Menswear too had a much needed renaissance; bright colors, double-breasted sports jackets, polyester pants suits with Nehru jackets, and turtlenecks were in vogue.

By 1964 the teenage influence caused the hemlines to creep up, and most teenagers were wearing mid-thigh length shifts as daywear. The sweater-dress was also very popular with young girls from 1961 onwards, until the mid-60s when other innovative designs were introduced. 1965 saw the premiere of culotte dresses in op-art or vibrant coloured patters (think Peter Max or Pucci) and these were most popular as evening or party wear; culottes had the freedom of trousers but the look of a full skirt. 1966’s dress was the tent, or “baby doll dress”, sometimes in transparent chiffon, worn over a contrasting slip, and often sewn-in.

1966 was the year of the mini-skirt! Widely acknowledged as the brainchild of designer Mary Quant, within a year anybody who had the body to pull it off was wearing a mini, many of whose hemlines were 4-5 inches above the knee in New York and 7-8 inches above the knee in London! Throughout this time skirts were often paired with a matching sweater and matching set of tights for a uniform look. 1965 and 66 also saw the mini-coat, perfectly straight and virtually shapeless; also the pop-inspired dyed furs and PVC designs. By 1967 capes were popular, and were often made with matching deerstalker hats.

In ladies’ tops or blouses, from 1960 onwards the turtleneck, or polo neck, sweater was common, especially under a collarless jacket, and in 1966 Aran sweaters, with their thick knit, became trendy. Sleeve length was usually ¾ length, with long sleeves often pushed partway up the arms for a ¾ look (think Jackie O style suits and jackets). Sleeveless tops did not become popular until the mid 1960s.

By the end of the decade, men’s ties, when worn, were up to 5″ wide; most were patterned even when worn with stripes. Women wore peasant skirts or granny dresses and chunky shoes. Unisex dressing was very popular, featuring the bell bottomed jeans, love beads, and embellished t-shirts. Clothing was as likely to be purchased at surplus stores as boutiques. Blacks of both genders wore their hair in an afro; whites of both genders wore their hair either big and frizzy or long and straight.

More 1960’s info

1960’s Icons

Jackie Kennedy

Costume ideas:

Mod

Hippy

Teddy Boys

Beatnick

Men in the 1960s:

Men’s suits finally became more fitting. Tailored jackets and narrow lapels worn with narrow collared shirts and skinny ties became popular thanks to Italian designers’ influence. Men’s fashion palettes expanded, which was not surprising, considering that clothing choices for men during the 1950s could hardly have become more conservative. The result is sleek and modern suits that we can see on tv series Mad Men. Popular shoes for men at the time were winkle pickers, an exaggerated pointy toe shoe.

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Vintage 1950s' fashion

Optimism abounded during the post-war years of the 1950s. The focus was on the baby-booming family and being a good housewife which was the ultimate measure of success.
The United States had emerged victorious from another bitter war. Television was now in many households, and the TV culture of I Love Lucy and The Honeymooners reflected ideals of the time. Stars such as Marilyn Monroe, Brigitte Bardot, and Elvis Presley introduced a smoldering sex appeal into an age of conservatism.

Consumerism became a popular pastime in the 1950s, as the post-war boom provided a sense of economic optimism. New gadgets and gizmos proclaimed the future was here and liberated women from many onerous household tasks. Homemaking, it seemed, was not so bad when you had electric stoves, vacuum cleaners, refrigerators, and the like. Women could now concentrate on making a comfortable home for their families, and still have time to have a life outside of the kitchen.

The constant rounds of barbecues, cocktail parties, and other social events all required dressing up. Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’ influenced fashion, but so did the conservative elegance of Coco Chanel. Charles Jourdan introduced a new kind of shoe style, the stiletto heel, in 1951. As time went on the goal was for the slimmest possible heel, eliminating earlier “chunky” styles. The pump was the basic shoe, but its toes might be cut, the vamps curved or cut in enticing ‘V’s, or the heels molded into a variety of shapes. Every color of the rainbow was used; shoes were intended to match an outfit perfectly.
Men in the 50s seemed to be seeking more security (post war). Conservatism was the new catch phrase and this is especially reflected in the menswear of the early 1950s when the trim quiet look was in vogue. This was a distinct change from the late 1940s bright colors. Now dark colors and shades of blues, browns and gray took over the scene. In 1953 the gray flannel suit began its reign. It was in 1953 that President Eisenhower refused to bow to tradition at his inauguration and chose to wear a jacket and homburg with his striped trousers instead of the usual top hat and cutaway. Looking back on his decision, it now seems merely to be the choice of a man who wanted more informality and a less rigid way of dealing with ordinary affairs. In all actuality it was merely a ripple on the surface of what was to become a full scale revolt by the young. Elvis Presley was just waiting in the wings with his suede shoes!

Teenagers were basically the focal point of this era. Films such as ‘Rebel without a Cause’ were influential in how teenagers dressed. The Beatnik culture, inspired by authors such as Jack Kerouac, was also in vogue. Leather, Levi’s, and Converse sneakers helped create the look. Along with the famous circle and poodle skirts, ponytails, saddle shoes, penny loafers, and colored sneakers were popular with teenaged bobby-soxers. Sandals, ballet slippers, and other casual footwear became increasingly fashionable, as pool parties and other casual outdoor activities became popular.

Life at that point seemed idyllic to many, but a storm was brewing…

1950’s websites
Timeline Fashion
FashionEra.com
How to dress 50’s
Grease
Costume Gallery
Rock n Roll Rockabilly Dancewear
1950’s icons
Audrey Hepburn
Marilyn Monroe
Elvis Presley

Credit :winifredandbance.com

Sunday, May 30, 2010

Vintage 1940s' fashion

Clothing of 1940s'

It is worthless to discuss fashion of the forties without first understanding the tremendous impact World War II had on everyday life during the early part of the decade. Social trends dictate fashion. World War II changed the world of fashion forever.
On September 3, 1939 England and France declared war on Germany. On June 14, 1940 Paris fell to Germany. German occupation began controlling haute couture. During the war, the Germans seriously considered moving the French couture houses to Berlin and re-establishing the seat of haute couture in Berlin. Berlin would then be known as the fashion capital of the world. On September 3, 1940, the United States transferred destroyers to Great Britain. The United States officially entered World War II on December 8, 1941.

Prior to World War II, New York fashion designers made the trek across the Atlantic Ocean to attend the flamboyant and opulent French fashion shows each year. They then returned to the United States and copied the latest Parisian haute couture designs. Once the Germans occupied Paris and the United States stationed battleships in the Atlantic Ocean, the New York designers were cut off from Paris haute couture. In their attempts to design new fashions for the United States market, they concentrated on sportswear. This led to the United States emerging as the sportswear capital of the world.
In an effort to comply with the restrictions imposed on them, American designers created a new style of suits for women. Skirts were short and straight topped by short jackets of twenty-five inches or less in length. Cardigans matched skirts and sheath evening dresses replaced the long flowing gowns of the thirties.
McCalls produced patterns for transforming men’s suits into ladies’ suits and women’s dresses into children’s clothing. The women of America were once again sewing their own family’s garments.

The true hallmarks of fashion in the early 1940s included an austere silhouette with narrow hips, padded shoulders, and all manner of hats. The working-class look of icons such as Rosie the Riveter became chic, as women of all social standings joined the war effort. They kept things going at home, taking over the jobs – and the closets – of husbands and other male relatives. Class barriers fell and people dressed down. It was considered gauche to be showy during a time of shortage. Designers flexed their creative muscle – even creating beautifully decorated gas masks for eveningwear!

American designers introduced the concept of separates and co-ordinating components in order to create the illusion of more outfits than one actually had. Classic sportswear styles took hold on college campuses and were soon adopted by all levels of society and all age groups.

Many varieties of peplums were in vogue: butterfly, bustle and gathered peplums were a few. Ruffles found their way to skirt hems, necklines and waists. Gored, gathered and A-line skirts were topped with soft, feminine blouses. Blouses donned bows at the center-front neckline and might sport full or puffy sleeves. Collars were cut generously full, in peter pan and traditional pointed shirt-collar designs. Lace also accentuated blouses around the neckline.

Women everywhere used household items, including cellophane and pipe cleaners, to create festive shoe decorations. Everything was recycled, giving rise to such clever advertising as Vogue’s “Make Do & Mend” campaign. Factories were converted from consumer goods production to military production. U.S. rationing rules limited the height of shoe heels to one inch and allowed for only six color choices; stockings were also unavailable. Magazines and beauty salons helped out by offering tips on how to paint legs with back seams and tan using makeup. This being impractical as an ongoing ritual, ankle socks became increasingly popular.

In 1947, Dior introduced the “New Look”, featuring longer lengths and fuller skirts; a return to classic femininity with a nipped waist. The use of many yards of fabric in garments was now seen as lavish and opulent. Women’s fashion changed to a soft, feminine and romantic image. The accompanying shoe designs would set the stage for the next decade…
Menswear in the 40s

The end of the war and rationing in America saw the development of the style that is most often associated with the swing era. Clothes were full-cut again, with double-breasted, longer jackets and wider trousers. Shirts and coats came in a range of colors and hand-painted silk ties ran the range from elegant to exotic – featuring geometric designs or pin-up girls. Everyone wore a tie and through it, one could express one’s individuality.
The Zoot Suit
The Jazz Era’s wide suit, hugely popular in Harlem in the 1930s, was worn predominately by African-American and Mexican-American youths in the 1940s. It was considered unpatriotic and even illegal because it went so far against the standards of rationing. The fact that so many of the Mexican-Americans who wore it were gangsters did not help its reputation. However, the high-waisted, baggy and low-crotched trousers with the narrow ankle and oversized jackets had a powerful influence on men’s fashions in the 1940s. Besides being an ideal outfit to wear while jitterbugging, the high waists and boxy, roomy coats were flattering, as well as comfortable. They gave a man more substance, something he wanted to project during such desperate times.

The look most commonly associated with men’s fashion in the 1940s, was what a man wore to take his honey out on the town. If he wasn’t in uniform, is look was strictly adhered to by today’s swing revivalists. Daring young men wore zoot suits, but others simply took off their single-breasted jackets to dance and showed off their style through their accessories. Even after the war, the accessories really made the man.
The tie, as mentioned above, was crucial. In the 1940s, high-cut trousers meant ties were shorter and wider. They were brightly colored when everything else was austere. They were held in place by clips, because you wouldn’t put a pin through your good tie.
Shirts were held in place by good cufflinks and dressed up by suspenders, which fastened to the trousers by buttons. Suspenders were especially popular when the leather that would make belts was all going to the war effort.
Almost everyone wore wingtip, spectator shoes, which were not terribly different from men’s shoes in the 1920s or 1930s. When he wasn’t wearing an Army-issued cap, a man distinguished himself with his wide-brimmed fedora. A smart, strong, stylish hat, the fedora was worn by everyone from gangsters to businessmen to President Roosevelt.